Ushuaia & Pingüinos - Monday, October 18, 2010

Morning came early, but no one complained because we were excited for our adventure today. Some showered last night and some this morning as we got ourselves ready to meet the remise downstairs at 5:30 a.m. We needed to be at the airport at 6:30, and although this particular one wasn't an hour away, one can never tell about the traffic, so we wanted to be sure we were on time.

Aerolineas Argentina would take us to Ushuaia which is the southern most city in the world -- the next stop being Antarctica. From the terminal, we were bused to the plane where we boarded it from the tarmack. Haven't done that for years and years!! The plane left at 7:40 a.m.

Two happy sisters were looking forward to this little side trip on their visit to Argentina. Their parents were even more excited to see this part of the mission that is three and a half hours away by air.

It was a quiet flight as most of the people were sleeping. We did our share of it too, but woke up during the last half hour to look down upon the snow capped mountains and beautiful coastline. It was cloudy and grey so the view wasn't the best. The forecast was rain for the two days we would be there. Ug!

We were glad we were warned about the rough landing in Ushuaia or we would have thought we were going to crash. The weather was really windy anyway, and the plane has to fly over the mountains and then make a steep dive to the runway. The plane was rocking from side to side and the turbulence was rough. What a ride!

The airport looked more like a ski lodge than an airport, and remises were parked outside waiting for travelers who would need rides into the city. We hired one to take us to our hostel which was a 10 minute ride. Hostel del Bosque is where President Argyle would stay each time he came to the South. It was clean and adequate with a little kitchen area, and in our room was a king size bed. Nice!! The girls had twin beds in their room.

It is evident from the coats, gloves, hats, scarves, and hoods that the weather was COLD -- everything we expected and worse because of the freezing wind that was blowing. If I wear anything on my head, it has to be freezing.

One of the main reasons we wanted to visit Ushuaia was to see the Pingüinos. We would do whatever it took to meet our goal. We made reservations from the hostel for seats on a sightseeing boat that would leave from the docks at 3:00. They wouldn't be going if the wind was blowing hard and the waters were rough, we were told.

Ushuaia is small and quaint and reminded us a little bit of Park City. We decided to walk around, find something to eat, and end up at the docks for our excursion. We stopped for lunch at a small cafe ordering a variety of things that could be shared. Among the favorites were pizza and cannelloni.

The city is on a hill that slopes to the water so the sidewalks have steps. We stopped in a few stores and became oriented with the shopping area so we could return tomorrow when we had more time.

These cute wall paintings caught our eye and we couldn't resist a photo shoot.

When we got to the docks, there was a tourist information building that Rich walked to, and we all followed. He inquired about the tours to see the penguins when we could see that all of the little tourist places that conduct boat rides were closed. We knew going from Ushuaia would not be an option today. The gal was most helpful and said that the sightseeing Catamaran type boats couldn't go because of the wind, but that they only passed by the shoreline for a view of the penguins. We would not be able to get off and walk among them.

But . . . there was a tour leaving in eight minutes that travels by a mini bus for an hour and a half and then by boat to Beagle Island where the Pingüinos are located. We would stay on the island for an hour and then the boat comes back to pick us up. The trip lasts five hours. We all jumped at the chance to go and there was just enough room in the bus for four more passengers. Wonderful!! The trip cost $73 per person. Oh well, that's what we came for!

The hour and a half ride to Harberton Ranch where we got on the boat was over a dirt road filled with pot holes. It was the longest ride ever. There were twelve tourists plus Ana, the guide, and the guy who would drive the boat. Ana explained things along the way first in Spanish and then in English.

When we got to Harberton we boarded a boat . . . well some kind of a water craft. It was not enclosed on the ends so the wind whipped through fiercely. Water splashed on one side of the boat continually and seeped through onto the bench seat causing those sitting there to jump up fast. The wind and rough water caused the boat to bounce along the waves making for a very rough ride.

As we approached the island we could see the little black and white birds dotting the coastline. How exciting to be able to walk among them although we were cautioned not to scare them, approach them, or feed them.

It was so fun to actually be among these cute little penguins. There are two kinds on this island. The penguins with black beaks are the Magellanic ones, and the Gentoo or Papua penguins have orange beaks. They are a little larger bird and stayed more inland in a group while we were there. We didn't get a very good look at them.

The cold wind was unbelievable. It was so strong that it was hard to hold a camera in position to take a picture. We have never experienced anything like it.

Our guide took us on a walk inland to see the nesting places for the pingüinos. They live in bushes and dug out places under the ground. The male digs a hole in the ground for his house, and if a female comes along and likes it, she will pair up with him.

Usually two eggs are laid and the husband and wife take turns sitting on the eggs. One tends the nest while the other fishes in the water for his food. Then they switch places. It takes 45 days for an egg to hatch.

In the winter, the penguins migrate North around Brazil where it is warmer and they live in the water for six months. They float around resting and fishing for food. Then in the spring they come back to the island to the very same bush or home that they had when they left. Both the husband and wife come back to the very same place. Sometimes they split up if the female finds a better place to live. She moves on to a more ritzy environment, I guess.

It was so interesting learning about the penguins and seeing them in their natural environment. So totally worth it!!

The nesting area was roped off so we had to stay on a path and couldn't wander close to their homes. It was fun to find a home close to the path where we could get a good picture. We could see some penguins peeking out of their homes as they were taking their turn sitting on the eggs.

The boat returned to take us back to the Harberton Ranch. It was still cold, the wind fierce, and water seeped in like before.

Rich steadies Marianne as she climbs onto the boat. Ending up in the cold water would not be good.

To keep dry from splashing water, the center section is the safe place to sit.

The mini bus stopped at a couple places for picture taking on the way back. This tree is popular and is found on many postcards. It was a quick stop with not much wandering around as the mini bus felt good after enduring the wind for so long.

Ana was a good tour guide and knows her stuff. She has conducted these tours for nine years.

We returned to Ushuaia at 8:00 p.m. and had a drink of grapefruit juice and sprite while relaxing before we went to dinner.

We were glad the hostel had a restaurant because we didn't want to venture out in the night to find a place to eat. Our waiter was so handsome, and Marianne wanted to find a way to take him home with her.

With an early morning and an exciting day, we were all ready to go to bed. I can't imagine how those little penguins stay warm sleeping in their dug out holes in the ground. So interesting!!

We loved the day!